Fuego Kingston: 'Attention to detail is everything here'- restaurant review

By Emily Dalton 23rd Oct 2023

Fuego by Fenwick Kingston has launches just in time for half-term and Christmas shopping. (Photo: Supplied)
Fuego by Fenwick Kingston has launches just in time for half-term and Christmas shopping. (Photo: Supplied)

As one of its own restaurant concepts, Fuego Kingston is the fourth site to open under the Fenwick brand following openings in Newcastle, Bracknell and Brent Cross.   

Fuego is tucked away in Fenwicks department store so you would be forgiven for mistaking it as a show room restaurant: an edible Ikea, if you will. Its stunning design and glamorous patrons is enough to fool anyone.

Soft launching at the start of October, the Mediterranean-inspired restaurant fuses the best bits of tapas, thin Napoli-style pizzas and evocative salads. 

Visiting Fuego on a Friday lunchtime, the restaurant was peppered with people: ladies pausing their shopping trip to draw a glass of wine and a bite of pizza, families treating themselves to churros, and couples stopping for an impromptu drink and quick snack. 

Secluded, but still very much part of the department store, the restaurant is a mini-Mediterranean oasis away from the products. 

Whether for half-term adventures or Christmas shoppers, days out or last-minute dashes for a forgotten gift, Fuego is suitably positioned to enhance a shopper's experience. 

A destination restaurant, it is a far cry from the department store canteens of yesteryear with a plastic tray, sticky tables and deflated sandwiches. 

Fenwicks pitches itself as an experience store and Fuego certainly adds to the indulgent feeling of being looked after. 

Whether having a quick drink at the cocktail bar or a bite to eat, Fuego is not an experience to be missed. (Photo: Supplied)

Walking into Fuego, you are greeted with a pearly marble and oak champagne and cocktail bar with gold adornments. I instantly felt like I was somewhere special. The light and airy interior gives it a sophisticated elegance. This lets the food do the talking. 

As I sat down to look at the menu, I spotted the chef tossing dough lightly through his fingers by the stone-baked oven. Perhaps not the farm-to-table concept, but from dough-to-dinner adds the feeling of luxury. 

From sharing charcuterie platters to little nibbles of Padron pepers, exclusive Jamon Ibèrico Bellota, an acorn fed Pata Negra ham aged for three years, and fresh fish from the south- Kingston locals will be spoilt of choice. 

I spoke to Fenwick's Director of Restaurants, Piero Sardano, who told me they are already starting to see repeat customers, who recognise quality ingredients and innovative cooking, and are eager to work their way through the menu. 

Whilst trying to narrow down my options- not always something you get to say as a vegan- a waiter brought me some olives to have with my drink. 

It is the little touches and added care like this which makes you feel really looked after. 

Later, I saw a waitress return a tortilla to the kitchen because the chef had forgotten to put oil on it. I was struck by the staff's level of attention to detail- they know these dishes. 

I would recommend the olives and the tenderstem any day- but the charcuterie platters look divine. (Photo: Supplied)

My Italian waiter recommended the best plates to go for (charred tenderstem broccoli, always) and catered for my preferences (courgette and apple salad without the Ibores cheese). 

I could hardly bear to hear the disappointment in his voice when I said I didn't eat meat. But he assured me the crispy seabass, lamb tagine pastilla as well as the chicken saltimbocca with polenta and sage butter were divine. 

Staying true to its South European roots, Fuego sources its ingredients mainly from Spain. You can tell simply by the flavours and the colours of the dishes. 

The courgette and apple salad was deliciously refreshing and made a satisfying combination with the aubergine hummus and the tahini broccoli. 

Every dish was presented beautifully- with the precise and fine selection of herbs and paprika dancing on the aubergine hummus. 

The vast menu provides plenty of options for even the fussy eaters. (Photo: Supplied)

As I do not have much of a sweet tooth, so I avoid deserts. I was surprised to see a few alcoholic-based ones. Yet, on closer inspection, alcohol is added to bring out the flavours of the sweet, rather than drown it. lemon sorbet with prosecco? Or sangria poached pears? 

The staff were attentive and never annoying- I hate it when the waiter asks how the food is when you have just taken a massive bite.  

Not my first meal alone, it was entertaining to people watch throughout the restaurant. I spied on what other people had ordered so I know what to try next time- beetroot salad I'm coming for you. 

The waiters were friendly and amicable enough so as I did not feel alone. We even managed to share a joke at the end (I said my favourite cheese was parmesan and the Italian waiter took it as a personal compliment). 

Fuego Kingston by Fenwick opens Monday to Saturday from 9.30am - 7pm (excluding Thursday when it's open until 9pm). On Sundays, the restaurant is open from 10.30am - 5pm 

 A series of interactive masterclasses and events are scheduled to run across all Fuego by Fenwick restaurants throughout November and December.  

These include sommelier-hosted wine pairing evenings, offering guests the opportunity to try a selection of handpicked wines, and cocktail masterclasses in partnership with climate positive British brand Sapling Spirits.  

     

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